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One month down the line from this trip and the travelogue still remains tucked away in the draft folder ! what a shame. perhaps it was the postaweek prompt or the urge to relive the holiday .. am back here trying to finish this one. It’ll take a little while .. but well begun is almost done in my case!

Some of us feel the need to take a trip to escape from the daily hassles of life and some to explore what’s out there that we have been missing knowing about. A little about former but essentially about latter , travel for me has always meant a journey towards discovery.
A lesson in history well learnt , a legend that still lives on , a purpose that binds an entite community and its generations together and a belief that refuses to be taken over by our modern sensibilities .I was looking for a weekend getaway for my birthday and I came back with more than a bargain.

This trip was planned almost a year back in thought if not detail at least. The husband and I were drawing up a list for the perfect weekend get away sometime around july and we came across this fantastic travelogue on the thought express at a blog that I regularly follow .
A place that we had never heard of held a mystical charm and the descriptor “land of kings” made the prospect too tempting to resist. But like few things are meant to be , it all fell in place in feb this year and I turned a year older at orchcha.

Barely 20kms from jhaansi ( an overnight journey away from delhi) this small little town was once the capital of bundelkhand. Infact the entire city is built around what was once a lavish kingdom.
On the bank of river Betwa , spread across just a couple of kms , the kingdom was passed on as a legacy from one generation to another.

Entered this travel writing contest on chillibreeze more coz I needed one more excuse to re-visit all those amazing travel destinations , I ve been dreaming about lately.

Travel writing is truly the sweetest torture.

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Lucknow is one of those unique cities who’s reputation precedes its mention. Dripping with a heritage that dates back to mughuls , it perhaps is more stereotyped than any other city that one can think of. Perhaps like the mention of Paris throws an image of impeccably dressed models catwalking down runways or couples indulging in freshly brewed coffee with French pastries at road side cafe , perhaps more as an antithesis , lucknow still comes across as a city of people from the old era narrating stories of life as it was over shero-shayri , lukhnavi tunda kebabs and intricate chickenkari .

Whether you’ve visited the city or not, you’ve known of lukhnavi aan , baan and shaan since forever.

A city that singlehandedly fuses delectable cuisine, atypical culture and art with the reminiscence of a bygone era. The bustling bylanes of hazratganj , the echoes of namaz at the old city , the tunda kebabs for travelers brought in by the morning shatabdi , the glittering ghats of gomti , the chatter of students of Le Martineire , the majestic vidhan sabah which stands tall as a tribute to the british era – a city that paints many vivid pictures. And amongst these snapshots one finds the most intriguing monument of our times – the Bara Imambara.

Literally meaning ‘big shrine’ , the building was built by Asaf-ud-ulah , the then nawab of lucknow in 1784 and here comes the interesting part , not as a symbol of undying love or opulence , but as a ‘famine relief project’! When the region was hit by one of the worst famines and people of his land were distraught , building this monument came as an answer to his dilemma and their worries.
Legend has it , that for 18 long years , the poor used to labour their way into building the monument through the day to earn their daily wages , while the nobility was brought in to demolish it by the night.
Now , one would wonder , why wouldnt he splurge his treasure to uplift the needy? And here comes the twist in the tale. Islam as a religion is averse to the idea of ‘easy money’ which is termed as ‘haraam’. An ideal god fearing muslim is supposed to earn his due i.e. ‘imaan ki kamaai’ . The nobility on the other hand , wasnt equipped with the necessary skills to ‘build’ , but was much better at ‘demolishing’. So , to make the idea a winsome deal for all strata , the ‘project ‘ went on for years before the monument was finally finished .
Now if thats an interesting story , then there’s more surprises these walls have in store for you. For the uninitiated , the upper floor of this royal building has one of the most extensive labyrinths of the world. but then again , that was clearly not the intention when the building’s foundation stones were laid. The bhulbhullaiya of various floors intermingling with one another into passages and stairways eventually leading upto an open terrace that gives a spectacular view of the entire city , was built the way it was built , and yes , this one’s a spoiler – to support the building’s weight in the marshy land without using beams!

Every year thousands of tourists land here and gaze with spectacle at the grandeur of the building and attempt to crack the bhulbhullaiyya without the guide’s help . But the monument still remains unknown to those who swear by our cultural heritage . One look at the litter strewn around the premises that’s now home to colonies of laboureres and touts and one wonders when would some of the most exquisite monuments of our times find their much deserved glory and come out from the shadows of Taj.

Catch the pictures in and around the gorgeous monument!

The Grand Entrance


The Majestic Premises


View of Imambara from Bowli

A couple of days back, on a storytelling spree with D over a walk, I was reminded of this fascinating story that I had come across on my visits to Lucknow. It got me the one response we storytellers yearn to get at the end of the story – “oh ! you cant be serious ! Really, is that true!” . It had the makings of the perfect drama – money, power, intrigue, royalty, religion – all embroiled into the shape of a monument.

But then isn’t that the reason monuments are built? A stamp on the face of time by a ruler who sought his moment of glory in history.

I’ve been to a couple of ‘monuments’, some who’ve found their way into the must-visit- sections of tourist itineraries and some others which are now forgotten. And I’ve realized every time I wandered gaping at their otherworldly splendor or pondering over their lonesome demeanor, how they seemed like memories captured in mortar craving to tell their story. So I took a minute off and lent them an ear. And thus began this series of notes on the enchanting storytelling of the most fascinating monuments of our times. Lukhnow , Mcloedganj, Delhi , Udaipur – catch an eclectic mix of snapshots of an era in subsequent posts. Lucknow’s Bara Imambara , is where it all began.. and that’s up next!

Another travelogue goes up on Rediff get ahead… :)

Please check Rediff getahead travel page for the memoirs of our trip to Mathura-Vrindavan-Agra ..here

And let me know what you think!

More soon…:)

Been Talking to so many people

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